From the day I purchased it, I followed a strict standard with close adherence to details. I specifically chose one of the rarest and most sought after RX-7s to serve as an ideal foundation: A USDM, ’94, Brilliant Black, Low Miles, Low Owner Count, R2 package.

My mod list, however extensive, only tells half the story. If you kept up with this website or read through the pages, you know that this was a long journey of immense effort. One that could not be replicated again – if I were to start from scratch today.

The hindsight of thinking that I could keep a car forever parallels my misunderstanding of others who sell their sports cars to start families. I was always perplexed at why people had to sacrifice their pride and joy. Why couldn’t fun and responsibilities coexist? Well, it’s not that easy, in actuality. There is also a cruel irony to all of this. When I had more time in the past, I spent it building this car. Now that it is done, I have no time and am unable to enjoy it. Adulting is hard and catches up with everyone, and I’m not getting any younger.

That is why I have made the conscious decision to list the car for sale. If I had more means and space, then I really could have kept it forever. But due to the magnitude of expenditure in this project, it is simply beyond the scope of allowing it to sit indefinitely.

With that said, I am selling the car at an extreme discount with respect to what has been poured in. This is a great opportunity to get into the car with high value.

If you are interested, please contact me. It would be amazing if it could land in the hands of a reader and someone who has been there every step of the way with me.

This is where Kevin of Auto Werks Detailing comes in. Not only was he flexible with the scheduling – I dropped off the car before a flight and then picked it up after my return – but he does great work. I had him do a full paint correction and detail on the car, and then top it off with an Opti-Coat ceramic coating. The idea of the ceramic coating is that it provides a long-term, wax-like barrier above your paint. This means future mars or swirls will be less prone, and if they do occur, they will be on the coating not the clear coat. The biggest advantage ceramic coating provides is the low maintenance, which is crucial for a black car.

I feel like when your detailing procedure has many steps, you introduce more possibilities for errors. Even when you’re waxing or trying to protect the paint, minor deviances in technique is enough to actually cause harm rather than good. This is why I never liked to repeatedly add on wax. Now with the ceramic coating, I shouldn’t have to. I can literally just hose down the car from time to time, and pat it dry. The hydrophobic properties of the coating makes washing easy and the car can keep a detailed look with minimal effort.

I dropped the car off to him at the warehouse he works out of, which had a cool collection of cars inside.

Like this Mercedes 500E.

On my way back home from my return flight, I took an Uber and met up with Kevin again at the warehouse. This was at around 11PM, which was super convenient and accommodating. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but when I first saw the car under the lights, I was stunned. The surface literally looked like glass. I was amazed at the results and regretful of not having done it sooner. The paintwork is extremely high end, but I do a poor job of keeping it at its potential by leaving the car in an unending state of dust.

Now, I stand a good chance of changing that pattern.

To pair up with the Alcantara wrapped door card, I also asked ESH Upholstering to redo the SakeBomb aluminum grip handle in Alcantara.

To install the new grip handle, the mounting hole at the base of the handle needed to be drilled out slightly and fastened with a machine screw into tapped threads on the grip.

Here it is joined back together with the trim piece.

Next, it was time to mate everything back to the door card…

…and then install the door card back to the car. To be comprehensive, I replaced all of the push-on fasteners with new OEM ones.

I taped up the sensitive carbon areas around the door cup to prevent scratching it when installing the door cup, which, like the driver side, is a cast aluminum reproduction.

I particularly like these door cups because they measurably increase the feel of sturdiness when pulling on the doors to open or close them.

Finished product.

I am at a point now where I am satisfied with the RX-7. Bugs that irked me have been corrected. Aesthetics that didn’t live up to the desired results have been redone. I took a step back and for the first time ever, took a mindful view of my journey with this car. I can admit to having done things to excessive levels. The point of diminishing returns was surpassed long ago. I am finally ceasing operations and the tail lights being outlined in this post will be the last major addition.

Although the OEM ’99 tail lights were befitting, I decided to take an extra step and try out the new Version 4 LED tail lights by Car Shop GLOW. The goal has always been to follow an understated, OEM+ path, but with the recent additions like the RE-Amemiya rear diffuser, my car is forking off towards the more modified direction. That’s why I felt like the changeup to LED tail lights would be worthwhile as a final accent. Unlike the more prolific Version 1s which had dotted LEDs throughout, these newer lights feature a diffused section of LEDs. I think these new lights have a more professional look.

The hardest part of acquiring and installing these tail lights was picking them up from my local USPS office. I ended up having to go twice, early in the morning, before retrieving the package. They left a notice on my door, but the first time I went to the office with it, the driver never unloaded and carried it around for another day.

Eventually it was in my possession and it was time to open things up.

I ordered all 3 pieces, including the third brake light section with LEDs.

Here is a closer look at one of the tails. You can see the diffused strip.

OEM ’99 versus CSG LED.

Backside with a branding placard.

Removing the tails from the car was a straightforward job.

Since the buckets behind the lights were dusty and dirty, I of course had to give everything a wipe down.

Installed!

Turn signals on:

Brake lights on:

And a better representation of the diffused LEDs with the garage door closed:

The car has been great. I spend most of my time driving it and taking it to the canyons. Like last weekend, with friends.

1994 Mazda RX-7 R2
25,500 Original Miles

ENGINE & DRIVETRAIN

GM 6.2L LS3 V8
Tremec TR6060 Transmission
Samberg Engine Subframe w/ C5 Biscuits
Samberg Transmission Mount w/ Energy Suspension Mount
Samberg Cobra Rear Subframe
Samberg Top Mount Differential Brace
Samberg Radiator Kit w/ Dual SPAL fans
Spoolin 1-3/4″ Long Tube Merge Headers, Ceramic Coated
Custom SS Tig 3″-3.5″-4″ Full V-Band Exhaust
Custom SS Tig Y-Pipe
Borla SS Race Muffler
Aluminum Driveshaft Shop Driveshaft w/ Billet CV
Driveshaft Shop Upgraded Axles w/ Billet 8.8 Adapter
Ford Cobra 8.8 Differential w/ Ford Racing LSD
Delrin Differential Bushings
In-Tank Bosch 044 Fuel Pump
Chips Motorsport Custom Fuel Pump Cradle w/ AN Fittings
Hyperion Fuel Surge Cover
XRP HS-79 Machine Crimped Kevlar Fuel Lines
XRP -4AN SS Braided Clutch Line
-6AN SS 1-Piece Hard Fuel Line Under Chassis
MGW Billet Short Shifter
Custom Vented Crankcase w/ SS Braided Lines & Catch Can
Billet Specialties Hose Separators
Katech Idler Pulley
MSD Super Conductor Spark Plug Wires
NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
Rotary Shack Hard Line ABS Delete
Wilwood Proportioning Valve
OEM 929 1″ Brake Master Cylinder
Wilwood 7/8″ Clutch Master Cylinder
IRP Billet Master Cylinder Brace
OEM R2 Strut Bar
Chips Motorsport Manual Steering Rack
GM F-Body Oil Pan
Improved Racing Racing Oil Pan Baffle
Improved Racing Crank Scraper
Dimple Magnetic Drain Plug
Custom Rear Mounted Dual Optima 6V Battery Box
Rotary Extreme Hood Struts
DEI Reflect-A-Gold Throughout Firewall/Engine Bay
DEI Form-A-Shield Throughout Transmission Tunnel
Newtech Performance Custom Tune on C6 E38 ECM
PSIConversion Swap Wiring Harness
Tucked Engine Bay Relays
Fuel Pump Direct Rewire
AiM Oil Pressure Sensor
AiM Oil Temperature Sensor

SUSPENSION & BRAKES

Ohlins DFV Coilovers
Brembo GranTurismo Big Brake Kit
RacingBrake 2-Piece Rear Rotors
SakeBomb Garage SS Braided Brake Lines
M2 Rear Trailing Arms
Racing Beat Front Sway Bar
Racing Beat Sway Bar Brace
ARP Extended Studs
Koyo Wheel Bearings
Chips Motorsport Manual Steering Rack
JIC Magic Tie Rod Ends

EXTERIOR

Full 2-Stage PPG Brilliant Black Repaint
Opti-Coat Ceramic Coating
OEM ’99 Front Bumper
OEM ’99 Front Lip
OEM ’99 Rear Spoiler
OEM ’99 Stanley Turn Lamps
OEM ’99 Polyurethane Sideskirts
OEM Rear Mudguards
OEM Flying-M Emblems
OEM Red Rear RX-7 Emblem
OEM Mazdaspeed License Plate Bracket
Car Shop Glow V4 LED Tail Lights
Car Shop Glow LED Third Brake Light
Odula Carbon Fiber Spoiler Blade
Custom Molded FEED Hood With Factory Aluminum Hood
RX-7 Front Half Plate
Plastics4Performance Polycarbonate Rear Windscreen
OEM Rear Windscreen Molding
RE-Amemiya FRP Street Diffuser
OEM LH Rear Towhook
Ganador Super Mirrors w/ Convex Blue-Tinted Glass
Rotary13B1 Aluminum Door Handles w/ Black Epoxy Repaint
LED / Cree Replacement Light Bulbs
Philips CrystalVision Ultra Headlight Bulbs
Half-Spec OEM Honda S2000 Antenna

INTERIOR

OEM Spirit-R Carbon Kevlar Recaro Seats
Alcantara Upholstered Dash & Glovebox
Alcantara Upholstered Center Console
Alcantara Upholstered Door Cards
Alcantara Upholstered Rear Quarter Trim Panels
Alcantara Upholstered Passenger Grip Handle
Alcantara Shift and E-Brake Boots
Alcantara Top Stitched Recaro Seat Covers
Broadfield Customs Shaved OEM Interior Panels
WC Lathewerks Custom SS Shift Lever
oCarbon Custom Plain Weave Carbon Fiber Overlay, Complete Set
OEM Honda Push Button Start
OEM Honda NSX Type-S Titanium Shift Knob
OEM Mazdaspeed Titanium E-Brake Lever
OEM RZ Floor Mats
OEM Aluminum Dead Pedal
OEM Replacement Rear Hatch Struts
Powder Coated Dash Bracing
SakeBomb Aluminum Passenger Grip Handle
SakeBomb Garage Rear Halon Fire Extinguisher
Rotary13B1 Aluminum Door Cups
Sound Deadened and Sealed Doors
M2 / RaceShop 4 Point Roll Bar w/ Powder Coat
Carbon Fiber Plain Weave Door Sills
LED Dome Light Bulbs
Hybrid Audio Mirus Front Speakers
Hybrid Audio Mirus Rear Speakers
Pioneer AppRadio 4 Head Unit
Pioneer Radio Dash Kit
Works Bell Short Boss Hub
Works Bell Rapfix GTX Tilt Hub
Momo MOD.88 Steering Wheel
OEM Mazdaspeed Red Horn Button
AiM MXG Color Race Dash

WHEELS

Desmond RegaMaster Marquis Promada  18×9.5/10.5″
Fully Refinished and Painted in Dark Gunmetallic
Desmond RegaMaster Marquis Promada Black Center Caps
Custom Desmond RegaMaster Spoke and Inner Barrel Decals
Enkei RPF1 Black Metal Valve Stems
Nitto NT05s
H&R 5mm Front Spacers
Project Kics R40 Iconix NeoChro Locking Lugnuts

I wanted to get the fix done quickly, as in by this weekend. With only 5 business days to work with, I promptly started the process and made arrangements with my usual go-tos. I contacted Ray Crowe and ordered a new Mazda lock cylinder with expedited shipping. This would get me the part by Friday. I was then able to pick up the package after work and made a trip over to the same locksmith that helped me rekey the Silvia trunk. Like before, he was able to reconfigure the tumblers to fit my existing keys.

Old on left, New on right.

Thankfully, replacing the lock cylinder is an easy affair and can be done with minimal disassembly. Soon enough, the install was complete and the fix checked off the list.

I like to stay as productive as possible because I value time preciously. I find that I can be uneasy or feel downright miserable when I am not doing something worthwhile. In the limited free time that I have, I prefer spending it on activities that are engaging. This is why I constantly seek to learn and increase my skills. Learning how to weld has been on my to-do list for ages, and I finally made it happen this weekend. I reached out to a local fabricator who had a Mig setup and brought Albert along for the party.

This was the first time I played with a Mig welder, but it is incredibly straightforward and I can see how its peak can be reached relatively quickly with practice. It is literally something you can pick up and run with.

We spent a few hours mostly cutting up a steel pipe and welding it back, repeatedly.

Mig welding was good to try out and start with, but what I really want to learn is Tig, which has a far higher learning curve. Will need to add that onto the ever expanding agenda.

At long last, and after much prodding, oCarbon came through with the work and I had a well overlaid carbon fiber hood in my hands. Unfortunately, I still couldn’t fully install the whole assembly, because the 3 mounting clips on the underside of the hood were removed and forgotten. That delayed the effort yet another week until the clips were eventually tracked down.

After having to see the gauge fascia sitting lonesomely on top of my pool table for months, I anxiously mated it back with the hood.

The moment of truth… I then maneuvered the entire cluster carefully into the car, plugged everything in, and was granted this belated yet relieving sight. The momentary buttons, S2000 start button, and AiM Dash all came to life and operated without issue.

There is no doubt you have to wait when it comes to dealing with oCarbon… but you do at least get what you paid for, at some point. I just wish their extremely overdue turnaround times did not have to overshadow the quality of work, because I have no complaints about the delivered product.

Many years of effort have led me to this interior. I lost count of which iteration this is, but it is surely the closest realization to my ideal specifications.

A while ago, I sold my custom ordered Nardi Gara Sport and picked up a new MOMO Mod 88. I just felt like it was time for a new look and that the MOMO would suit the overall theme of the new interior better. It is also D-shaped and all black suede. I was finally able to run my red Mazdaspeed horn button, that I purchased a year ago, below the optional MOMO Competition horn ring.

Months of hard work and patience have now brought me one step away from the finish line. The passenger side door card is all that is left. Hopefully it won’t be long.

A couple weekends ago, I took the car out for an errand day and knocked out items on the checklist. Starting off with a scheduled alignment at my preferred spot – Auto Innovations in Milpitas. They are old timers and I first went to them when I had my very first car back in High School. And now over a decade later, even in the midst of new shops that have popped up, I still prefer them. They get the job done at a reasonable rate ($100 for a custom alignment) and are no frills.

I needed an alignment because I lowered the car all around after I fitted the RegaMasters. And with the new ride height, the front tires rubbed the center of the fender lip when fully turned on uneven pavement. I added half a degree more of negative camber, which coincidentally maxed my settings, to help pull the tire away in this situation. The end result actually worked. I now have far less of a rubbing issue and the car drives well for such a low height.

Here are my alignment specs.

Once my alignment was done, I cruised over to Carzwerk in Fremont to chat with Jason, the owner. After being worked on for half a year in the garage, the car was in dire need of a proper detail. I’m thinking a full paint correction with ceramic coating might be on the agenda in the near future…

To round out the day, I then brought my car to the local speed oil change center in Union City. I was skeptical about the car clearing the welded on poles on top of the pit, but it somehow did. I had to reverse the car in, though. A few minutes later, I had my oil changed with 6 quarts of my self supplied Amsoil 5w30 and a new Wix XP oil filter. I don’t think I will ever bother with changing the oil myself in the garage. The time it takes for me to just jack up the car is longer than it takes to get the oil changed at one of these places.